Materials:

• 2-ply Ultrex
• Polyester lining
• Flannel (for pocket lining and the small triangle collar pockets)
• Snaps
• Velcro
• Seam tape
• Seam sealer
• Zippers (one large 2-way separating, 2 small pocket, and 1 small separating)
• Polyester thread
• Interfacing

Pattern and Alterations

This is a heavily altered version of Burdastyle 08/2011 #103.


I made several muslins and lots of fitting adjustments and features. I added a large collar, a waistband, and a hood to the coat. I also added a zipper and facings.

I was able to "bag" my jacket, which means I sewed the lining in place (including the hem) with the lining and main jacket inside out. I was able to pull the jacket rightside-out through one of the openings for the armpit vents. This post by Grainline post was a good guide on how to bag a jacket.

I was really happy with the armpit vents that I added. The are inconspicuous and are very functional.

Vent open

Vent closed

After I put my jacket together, I handsewed the lining to the armpit vent opening. I pressed the seam allowances of the lining before sewing it into the jacket, so it was very easy to sew.


I also handsewed some snaps onto my small inside sleeve tabs.


These small tabs wrap around a small loop on my inner jacket and snap in place. This means I can take both jackets off at the same time without the sleeves getting bunched up.

Sleeve tabs in action

I also decided to go with snaps for my waistband. At first, I couldn't decide whether to use snaps, buttons, or buckles. But, I couldn't find anything but snaps, so that's what I went with. I just added a third belt piece to wrap around the back so the jacket has more room to gather.

Another alteration was to the front pockets. The front pockets are inside the jacket and made with cosy flannel. Zippers keeps the pockets closed and the pocket flaps protect from the wind, while looking stylish.


My Completed Jacket!

Here is the jacket with my microfleece inner jacket inside:



 And here is me wearing it:

Long shadow - the sun is still so low!

It looks and feels great. The hood works well, too:

Matching sunglasses!

Now, I'm off to spend more time outdoors and see how well it works in the cold and snow.

Here are all my jacket posts:

• Sewing: Maybe a Winter Jacket? 
• Sewing: Picking a Winter Jacket Pattern 
• Sewing: Winter Jacket Muslin 
• Sewing: Winter Jacket Alterations 
• Sewing: Picking Outerwear Fabric
• Sewing: More Winter Jacket Muslins 
• Sewing: Winter Jacket Update 
• Sewing: Armpit Vents
• Sewing: A Hood for My Jacket 
• Sewing: Winter Jacket Collar Features 
• Sewing: Winter Jacket Adjustable Waist Options
• Sewing: Winter Jacket Sewing Order 
• Sewing DWR Fabric and Waterproof Outerwear    

And if you need more help with your own jacket, I also recommend taking a look at the Sewaholic Minoru Sew-Along for tips.